Mini-Adventures Galore!

Finally we’re settling into our schedules here in Nantes! Classes are confirmed and have been attended multiple times, I can get to and from many places in Nantes via tram (though I still won’t touch the bus), and I’m even in the process of becoming a regular at a creperie. Not everything is completely set in stone yet (I’m going to be trying a new club and possibly a new dance class on Thursday and Friday respectively and my internship won’t start until March 1) but it’s certainly starting to feel like a routine. This, of course, meant it was time to shake things up a bit! So on Saturday we had our first of three IES-sponsored field trips—this one to the seaside town of St. Malo and the famous Mont St. Michel.

Our trip began at 7:45 AM when we boarded the bus for our three-hour ride (aka “nap time”) to St. Malo. When we arrived we were right by the sea and all started climbing the ramparts/outside walls for extensive views of the harbor, the ocean, and the rocky beaches below. Once we made the tour around we descended and had some free time for exploring the cobblestone streets and eating lunch. A group of us stopped at (where else?) a creperie. I got a dessert crepe with chestnut crème and the vin chaud specialty (hot wine with spices—tasted a lot like cider) thinking that I should only eat dessert since I already had a sandwich/banana lunch packed with me (I already ate the mini dessert cake on the bus…). Little did I know that the crepe would fill me up and I wouldn’t have room for the actual lunch I brought! (Though I suppose eating dessert for lunch isn’t the worst thing that could happen.) The creperie also sold cakes bigger than my head and other tempting (though expensive) desserts. When it was time to go, my friend Nora and I thought it would be a better idea to retrace our steps on the ramparts in lieu of risking getting lost on the streets in town on the way back to the bus. It turned out, however, that this was not a good idea and we were the last ones to board by a good 5-10 minutes. Oops.

After another hour or so on the bus, we made it to Mont St. Michel. It was really pretty the last part of the drive because we could see it from a distance which is quite the site as well, though of course up close it is completely fascinating, as well. Even though it was the middle of February it was amazing how many tourists there were! And of course there were many touristy shops to sell me things on the ascent to the abbey (I didn’t buy much until we got in—a few post cards and a book of mini paintings of the site). The day was for the most part overcast (typical) but clear and so once we got up high enough (I suppose it was higher than I imagined it would be) we could see really far and as far as plains go, it was a beautiful view. We could also see the muddy lower plains that apparently flood and which are prettier and cooler-looking than they sound. It should also be noted that I was super early to the bus this time.

The only disappointing thing about these trips was that I didn’t see the promised gastronomic specialties. Wikipedia (always reliable) told me that St. Malo had one of the highest concentrations of seafood restaurants in Europe. If they do, they hide them well (I probably wasn’t going to get it anyways, since I brought a lunch, but still, it would be nice to know they’re there…). I was also expecting to hear about the pre-salted lamb of Mont St. Michel which Wikipedia told me are “salted” while they are alive because they graze on the marshes that flood. I saw pictures…but no meat (again, not that I was eating anyways…).

Now on to something that did not even come close to gastronomically disappointing me: the Marché Talansac! I had heard about it before: a few weeks ago, my host mother mentioned this sweet market at a tram stop near the house. She said there would be food and all kinds of other good stuff to buy and the biggest day is Sunday which is a big deal because not much is open on Sunday (this is what happens in a country that actually observes the Sabbath, lol). So I went. There wasn’t much and it smelled like fish. A bit disappointed, I grabbed a ham, cheese, and butter sandwich from the main tram stop and headed back. BUT then I learned from a friend who wanted to go that it closes at 1 or so. I had gone at 1:30—all was not lost! So we went back this past Sunday and OH MY GOSH it was awesome. Fruit, vegetables, meats, cheeses, pastries, you name it they’ve got it—and in many varieties, too. I’m only happy I had not yet gone to the ATM and that I’m not allowed to cook or so much of my money would have left my wallet right then and there. There was also a selection of non-traditionally French foods there, too (Asian, Indian, etc.). My friend and I each bough a flatbread thing called a borek and a little baklava (my first) from what we believe to be a Turkish stand. Both were yummy and I must find recipes! All during this there was a street performer man playing the accordion to provide a little background music and other independent sellers of anything from flowers to violins to dishware and books were outside. Again, I’m glad I hardly had any money!

And speaking of delicious, I just discovered Speculoos à tartiner. It’s a spread based on a Belgian cake and it’s soooooo (extra o’s for emphasis) good. It was just sitting there one morning at breakfast this week. I tried just the tiniest bit before putting it on a croissant (oh man, that sounded French) and I was hooked. I even bought some at Monoprix tonight to take to the IES center where I have most of my classes and I may also be plotting to bring some back with me (I hope there’s room in the suitcase…). Suffice it to say that Speculoos on bread is the best thing since Nutella on bread (which, incidentally, is the best thing since sliced bread).

Also today in the news I want to mention that it SNOWED. I was told that I looked like a five-year-old on her first snow day. It was barely for more than 10 minutes at a time (most of which I was on the tram) but it was really pretty (though nothing compared to the blizzard everyone at home—Napoleon and Oxford—are getting!). Since this doesn’t happen much here, it was pretty exciting for me!

Oh, and I just learned the expression "coup de coeur."  It's an adorable little expression that's hard to translate but it's something (as per Lindsey H) that is like impuslive love or that you can't get enough of.  Snow and Speculoos à tartiner are my current coups de coeur :) (if I'm using the phrase correctly...).

A bientot!